(This edition of ‘Snapshots’ shares a charming account of a canoe trip up the Cupsuptic River retold from an old trip diary that appeared in the MAINE WOODS newspaper on September 9, 1903. I wonder if the mentioned “Herb” might be a young guide & newcomer to Haines Landing who would go on to become the nationally famous artist, taxidermist and sporting personality, Herb Welch? Billy Soule, founder of Pleasant Island Camps and an early sporting camp owner in the region, is also mentioned. Despite the burned garments, spills, and chills it sounds like it must have been a good time! You might also increase your vocabulary with this one.)
(Contemporary commentary shared in italics)
LEAVES FROM A DIARY.
Being the Account of a Three- Days’ Camping Trip.
Monday. Sept. 7 — A Bluebird of a day to start on a trip. At 9.30 we, that is Paul, Hutch, Tries, Billy, and Ralph, with Herb for guide, take Billy Soule’s steamboat and start for Cupsuptic. Very heavily loaded with provision and bedding, we persuaded Capt. Tommy to take us to the mouth of Cupsuptic River. Halfway there, the water is too shallow for the steamer, and we embark in our canoes, (three in all), and after much strenuous exertion reach the wild river. Elegant paddle up to the storehouse, arrive in camp striking only six stumps on way.
(When Upper Dam was rebuilt in 1863 it raised the level behind the dam 18 feet. This caused the Mooselookmeguntic and Cupsuptic lakes to join, grow in size and flood the many inlets. Today, some 162 years later, many of the old cedar stumps remain remarkably preserved in the dead water section of the Cupsuptic River, attesting to the resilience of cedarwood and the preservation qualities of cold water).
Luck is with us sure. We buy fancy wool socks at storehouse and “hike” the carry with our canoes and plunder.
(Where the rapids empty into the Cupsuptic dead water section today is known as Moocher’s Falls and there used to be a large storehouse and lumber camp at the site supporting other lumbering operations upstream).
Launching canoes once again and repacking kits, we start up the pellucid stream (translucently clear). By good luck we dodge a hailstorm or rather it evades us. Lunch on shore. Eggs, toast and coffee, paddling up to Big Camp and trouble begins. Much exertion needed, poles called into service, many bumps and overturns that cause a decided dampness to clothing aid bedding. Leaving Billy to bring their canoe along as he wears “waders.” Paul and Ralph splash through the aqueous fluid, until the site of camp is reached and await the flotilla, which presently heaves. Camps in sight. Once landed, Paul oversees the reconstruction of the camp. Herb hews down the giants of the forest. Hutch and Billy gather boughs while Ralph busies himself in preparing provender. At 7.30 camp being finished and supper ready, we stow away many of Mr. Armour’s delicious beans together with long draughts of coffee. Too tired to wash dishes, so sit round rousing campfire, smoking, telling stories and singing songs till 12:30, when bedding is dry, we turn in and are soon sleeping the sleep of the just and unjust.
Tuesday, Sept. 8—Awakened at 4.30 a. m. by Hutch asking someone to bring him a piece of candy, Bill and Ralph rise, replenish the fire, the mocha being brewed, we enjoy an early breakfast, under the open sky. Pretty cold this morning. Triss forgot to wash it was so cold. Wash dishes for the first time as they really needed it. All afflicted with grievous lassitude (weariness) all forenoon (morning). Billy goes on an exploring tour to Big Falls, a half mile upstream. Herb chews up more firewood, while Paul sleeps on. Hutch dries his stockings and burns one. Work a little more on camp. Bully time doing nothing. Game Warden butts into camp at noon. We give him something to eat and an invitation to call again. We had three squares today and after a round of songs from six stentorian (loud or powerful) lungs and much ribald (vulgar or coarse) laughter, we crawl under the covers at 8:00. Paul forgets two of his blankets, so he gets up cold at 2 a.m. and tends the fire till daylight, burning his shoes in the process.
Wednesday, Sept. 9—Rise at 6.30. Colder than ever, only 30 degrees above zero. Too cold to wash so cut it out. After a hearty meal we pack up bedding and loading down Billy as he is easy, we start for home. Paul, Triss, and Ralph do a hot foot overland to camp on the shore, where they await the arrival of the other three with transports, heave in sight, Hutch in an exuberance of joy, leans too far over in his canoe. Exit Hutch.
Five watch him crawl out of the stream and into his craft and as soon as he arrives, we start home once more. Arrive at the warden’s camp at 11 a.m., where we are well received. Take dinner with the warden and leave him lots of work to do in cleaning up after us. Herb and Hutch go back up stream, about 200 yards. to put out fire some careless party failed to extinguish when they left with the flames, but the Fire Demon is finally vanquished. Once more, the carry and then paddle to Billy Soule’s, where we take the afternoon boat to Haines Landing, arriving there, tired, and dirty, but perfectly healthy and happy until another year. Many thanks to the merry party at the Lower falls for their kind reception and entertainment, both there and on the boat coming home. Have more apple pie next time. Oh, how she blew!
(Sounds like quite a camping/canoe trip. I can’t say I have never enjoyed such misadventures myself. Have a great week and be sure to create a bit of enjoyable Rangeley history of your own!)